Multifaceted Georgetown: The Nigga, the Chinese and the Japanese

Born and raised in the midst of the ever-churning mental tempest known as Africa, one becomes a captive to the ceaseless cyclone of retrospection and the daunting specter of what lies ahead.

My journey into the heart of Penang’ began with an unexpected delight – an Indian lady, my Grab driver. Just like my Ipoh hosts, she actually spoke to me. She listened as if my words were golden, perhaps some elixir she had been waiting all her days to hear. And in her words was a kindness, a concern that is so quick that, for her, it felt natural.

This attentiveness is a part of who she is and that is, if I’m honest, the most attractive feature one can see in another human. Amidst the whirl of conversation, she even inquired about my breakfast plans, and her parting gift was a food recommendation in Georgetown: Nasi Kandar. Not entirely unique, but a promise of flavors yet to be savored.

George Town’s Gradual Charm

Amidst the whirl of my adventures in this unfamiliar land, I couldn’t help but notice the constant culture shocks that peppered my journey. Take, for instance, the seemingly mundane task of loading luggage onto the bus. It turned out to be a solo endeavor, as each passenger tended to their own belongings. The sight of me offering to help a young lady load her bags prompted a mix of surprise and amusement, raising eyebrows and evoking warm smiles. Undeterred, I settled comfortably into my seat at the back of the bus, unwittingly embarking on a journey with an elderly lady who, much like my engaging Grab driver earlier, would become my impromptu tour guide during the ride.

George Town’s charm crept upon me gradually. Nestled in the warm embrace of “We Love Guesthouse,” I found myself immediately engaged in a lively conversation. Stereotypes had me labeled as a Kenyan with a penchant for running, earning me a spontaneous invitation for a hike to Penang Hill’s summit.

Little India’s Vibrancy

First on my agenda, I ventured into the heart of George Town, specifically, its Little India. This vibrant enclave within the historic old town enticed me with its kaleidoscope of experiences. Rainbow-hued sari shops, spice-scented Indian markets, resplendent Hindu temples, seductive Indian eateries, and the resonant echoes of Bollywood tunes blaring from loudspeakers; it was a sensory symphony.

The evening was the perfect time to immerse in this vivacious milieu called Little India. Multicolored lights dressed up the streets, creating a magical atmosphere. Street vendors emerged, offering Indian sweets and other delectable treats that beckoned the wandering traveler.

A Tapestry of Heritage and History

Beneath the surface of George Town lies a tapestry of history, interwoven with the legacy of British rule. I explored the UNESCO heritage sites, guided by my trusty map, a gift from none other than Jackie Chan himself, my host at “We Love Guesthouse.” It’s worth noting that George Town will forever be etched in my memory, as it was here that I received the endearing, albeit unconventional, label of “negro,” sweetly uttered by a passerby on a scooter. A rare sighting, it seemed, for there are few black souls here, and I’m inclined to believe that no malice was intended.

George Town’s architectural landscape reflects the diverse spectrum of ethnicities that once graced its shores. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it boasts a compact 2.5 square kilometers adorned with grand British colonial buildings, ancient Chinese shops, and an array of temples representing various faiths. The City Hall, Town Hall, Immigration Department Building, and Customs Building stand as some of the best-preserved colonial gems.

The “Street of Harmony” is UNESCO’s special tribute to showcase how diverse communities coexisted and crafted a unique multicultural space, an embodiment of George Town’s rich heritage.

Street Art and Creativity

But George Town’s true masterpiece lies in its street art. The townscape transforms into a colossal canvas adorned with hundreds of murals, each narrating its own tale. The most renowned artist, Ernest Zacharevic, was commissioned to bring old Chinese shop facades to life with his murals. His murals, coupled with tangible objects, offer captivating insights into Penang’s culture. The art scene, the architectural marvels, and the cultural diversity, blending Indian, Malay, and Chinese influences, are utterly captivating. I even became the subject of my first-ever street art drawing, with people clamoring for photos with the mysterious black traveler.

Culinary Delights of Penang

Penang boasts legendary cuisine delights celebrated throughout Malaysia. The streets of George Town become a culinary playground, where flavors compete for attention, often surpassing their restaurant counterparts. While I sampled a range of dishes, I found that the street food reigned supreme. Pork noodles, though delicious, couldn’t hold a candle to these delectable offerings: Assam Laksa, Char Kway Teow, Pasenbur, Popiah, Nasi Kandar, and the delightful Cendol dessert, a symphony of shaved ice, palm sugar, and coconut milk.

Hiking Adventures and New Friends

Hiking, as always, proved to be the gateway to new friendships, and Penang Hill introduced me to a trio of Japanese wanderers: Sho, Akana, and Shohta. They shared tales of their adventures across 28 countries, their escapades in Nairobi, where they sampled Ugali and Fish, and their unfortunate encounter with Covid that prolonged their stay.

Penang Hill evoked nostalgia, reminiscent of my Mount Kenya expedition. As I trekked, my thoughts wandered to the untapped potential of Kenya’s hiking scene. The journey was not without its mysteries; 17th-century castles dotted the landscape, and a mountaintop establishment awaited with cabins descending on a train.

A Dutch dreamer crossed my path during this hike, harboring grand backpacking aspirations but swayed by the stereotypical misgivings about Africa’s safety for solo female travelers. Her question lingered in the air, a testament to the misconceptions that often shroud the beauty of our continent.

Temptations and Insights

I grappled with my own impulsive spending habits, pondering why I had succumbed to the allure of fruit plata and a can of cold Fanta. Perhaps it was the humidity, the ever-present companion to my daily soda consumption. It probably wasn’t my fault.

A local George Town resident shared an intriguing tidbit with me – the etiquette of ordering a drink when occupying a table, whether or not food is part of the plan. This practice, it seems, is rooted in ensuring the profitability of restaurants, many of which are overseen by drink vendors who share stalls with food purveyors. A financial pact, a 300% profit, or so it was said.

As I strolled through the city at night, a rather peculiar sight caught my eye—an unassuming figure dressed in modest attire that strangely resembled a Catholic nun. This “prostitute in disguise” seemed to have taken a unique approach to her career. Far from the conventional image of seduction, her comically unsexy appearance left me wondering if she had perhaps misjudged her chosen path.

Amidst the bustling streets and the whirl of experiences, the unsexy allure of temptation beckoned. A tapestry of moments, stories, and encounters painted my journey through George Town, a captivating chapter in my ongoing exploration of the world.